Fourteen storeys of stacked tins, the Tower of Tuna rose above the Pellham Road recycling depot like a metallic hymn. We climbed it, rather clumsily, and the experience altered us.
Its great virtue is the aroma, which functions as a kind of acoustic design: you know where you are by what you smell. Its flaw is structural. By the ninth storey the flavours blur, and one cannot tell salmon from regret. We award it four paws of five and recommend the cafeteria level, where the stack lost its balance and gave us lunch.